Good morning. The king salmon are starting to run in Alaska, and if you’re in Seattle you can go get some at Pike Place for $45.99 a pound and I’m sorry but that’s a fair price. The work that goes into harvesting wild salmon is, as I’ve reported, difficult and expensive. Wild salmon is a precious resource — and phenomenally delicious. It shouldn’t be cheap.
But of course you should eat it and wild sockeye salmon, too, oilier and more red in hue. (Not to mention mild, wild Mr. Coho and his cousins Pink and Chum.) Properly managed as a fishery, wild salmon can provide a taste of the natural world that can stretch our imaginations back millennia.
David Tanis gave us a terrific new recipe in celebration: king salmon with chive oil and a lime-scented crème fraîche. That would make a top-notch dinner tonight, I think. (If it’s too involved, there’s always my goofball quick-dinner version: pan-roasted salmon with jalapeño, which I like with finely shredded cabbage, lime and a little crema.) Enjoy.
On Monday, I like this recipe for baked rice with leeks, white beans, Parmesan and herbs.
Or maybe a pasta salad? Melissa Clark wrote in support of the dish this week, and gave us four recipes to support the thesis: classic pasta salad (above); lemony farro pasta salad with goat cheese and mint; green goddess pasta salad; and pasta salad with tomatoes, basil and olive oil. Go to!
Tuesday’s dinner: baked shrimp in the Greek style, with tomatoes and feta, creeping up on 1,500 five-star ratings. It’s like a sophisticated take on the shrimp Parm they serve at Dan Tana’s in Los Angeles. Like that dish, it’s worth pairing with a martini, very dry, very cold.
On Wednesday night, take a trip in the wayback machine, to the lamb burgers I learned to make from the scamps at the late, lamented Lucky Peach, a kind of home-EC version of the ones served at Xi’an Famous Foods in Flushing, Queens.
Then, on Thursday, stay in the vaguely Asian larder for this awesome vegetable stir-fry that Kim Severson learned from the chef Jenné Claiborne. It’s a vegan and more delicious version of the Panda Express mall chicken Claiborne grew up with, and endlessly adaptable. Don’t like chickpeas for it? Use tofu. Use tempeh. Truth be told, I bet it’d be great with chicken.
And then make a fancy meatloaf for Friday night dinner, because sometimes it’s worth acknowledging that meatloaf can be awesome.
Thousands of other recipes to think about cooking this week await you on NYT Cooking, at least once you’ve taken out a subscription to access them. (Father’s Day is coming up. Have you thought about getting the old man a gift subscription? That and a new Benchmade, he’ll be good.)
Further inspiration is available on our Instagram, Twitter, YouTube and Facebook pages. And you can always ask us for help if something goes, as the English people say, “pear-shaped.” Just write [email protected], and someone will get back to you.
Now, here’s a great story about Annie Correal, a reporter on our Metro desk, who recently used the G train as a horizontal drone, to deliver to a friend an unaccompanied container of lentil soup. It says a lot about New York City, how that turned out.
Speaking of The Times, here’s a good letter of recommendation we published, on washing dishes.
It’s a long way from the kitchen, but I think you’ll like this account of Caribbean break-bulk shipping in Harper’s, by Rowan Moore Gerety. It’s about selling American junk in Haiti, about drugs and politics and poverty. It’s very good.
Finally, I saw Cirque du Soleil’s “O” at the Bellagio in Las Vegas right at the start of its run, probably in its first year, 1998. I still think about it. I just did today, seeing someone elegantly step across a puddle. I think that speaks well to a piece of culture. Here’s to the art of Francophone Canada! See you tomorrow.
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