What to Cook Tonight

Good morning. Susan Spungen was the food stylist on the 2009 film “Julie & Julia,” about how young Julie Powell blogged her way through cooking the entirety of Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” — a feat that we covered in The Times in 2003. Susan was also for many years the food editor of “Martha Stewart Living,” where her clean, luscious recipes became the strong spine of the magazine’s progeny, “Everyday Food.”

Now she’s contributing recipes to our pages, and we’re thrilled because they’re smart, beautiful, delicious and accessible, good eats for weeknights, meant to punch above their weight. Exhibit A: This fine springtime sheet-pan pizza (above), which I’d of course like you to make with long-fermented pizza dough but understand that quick pizza dough might be easier. It’s a Monday night. I’m not going to throw flags if you even use store-bought.

But hey, if the oven’s not going on tonight for anything, you’re halfway to ordering bad takeout and hitting the couch to page through the new Michael Wolff, I get it. You could pick up some scallops on the way home to make this awesome salad from Mark Bittman instead: the raw scallops tossed with seaweeds, cucumber, soy sauce and sesame oil. (Alternatively, try this spicy shrimp salad with mint.)

It’s a little more involved, but I could see making David Tanis’s new recipe for lentil salad with tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, feta, hard-boiled eggs, canned tuna, anchovies, mint and oregano, a riff on niçoise. And I’d love to get started on Melissa Clark’s new recipe for a no-bake lemon cream situation, with strawberries. That would definitely spark joy, where I hang my hat.

Would you like to try this roasted salmon glazed with brown sugar and mustard? Or this crunchy eggplant Parm? It is always and forever a good time to make Gabrielle Hamilton’s recipe for scratchy-husband pasta, essentially spaghetti aglio e olio e cacio e pepe e all’arrabbiata, which emerged from a smart column she wrote in 2018 for The Times.

In a different vein entirely: Eid Saeed! The Ramadan fast comes to an end this evening, and the feasting of Eid al-Fitr follows. We have you covered with recipes for the holiday, if you’re celebrating or even if you’re not. (These sweet toasted vermicelli noodles with cardamom, a recipe Julia Moskin learned from Sumayya Usmani of the blog My Tamarind Kitchen, are a must-try whatever your spiritual beliefs.)

Thousands and thousands more recipes to cook tonight and on coming days await your selection on NYT Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to access them. Time was the business of journalism was advertising. Now we count on you instead. I think that’s better for everyone. I like working for you. You’re a good boss.

Come visit us in other corners of the internet, while you’re scrolling. We’re on Instagram, Twitter, YouTube and Facebook. (You can find me out there as well. Follow me cracking wise on Twitter, posting photos of food and fish on Instagram and trying to figure out Facebook.) And please ask for help if you’re having difficulties with your cooking or our technology. We’re at [email protected]. Or write me if you’re particularly peeved or happy: [email protected].

Now, it has nothing to do with food and I realize I’ve been posting about the hippies a lot, but it’s Allen Ginsberg’s birthday today — he would have been 93 — and as good a time as ever to revisit his 1968 appearance on “Firing Line” with William Buckley. Watch it! The culture wars have been going on for a long, long time.

Roll down the windows in the whip, please. This is new Mary J. Blige, featuring Nas, “Thriving.”

Finally, let’s totally read “Mostly Dead Things,” Kristen Arnett’s first novel, which Parul Sehgal raved about in The Times last week. And I’ll be back on Wednesday.

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